door hanging spice rackTweet
Over time, like many of you I'm sure, we have collected a number of spices. Also over time they have taken up more and more space and are even harder to find and sort through. This door hanging spice rack fixes both of these issues by capitalizing on unused space behind the door and allowing you to see all the spices without moving anything.Over time, like many of you I'm sure, we have collected a number of spices. Also over time they have taken up more and more space and are even harder to find and sort through. This door hanging spice rack fixes both of these issues by capitalizing on unused space behind the door and allowing you to see all the spices without moving anything.
I started out with store bought poplar, which saved me the time of visiting my hardwood supplier and milling the boards. This project does not need to 100% flat or straight stock, just get it close and move on!
Find the flattest / straightest boards and use them for the sides.
Cut the others into small boards that will be the selves. Based on your containers, spice jars and the size of your door your height depth and width of the shelves may vary. Also, I made the spacing larger on my bottom two shelves to store tin foil, plastic rap, ziploc bags, etc.
All dado's cut smaller than the thickness of the shelf.
Rabbet at the top and bottom cut just over 3/4" and then flush to the shelf surface with a block plane after glue up.5/8" Dado's for all the middle shelves and "strong" 3/4" rabbets for the top and bottom. To save on the hassle of getting the dado's and rabbets to be an exact match of the shelf stock each shelf dado was cut undersized (5/8") then a rabbet is cut in the end of each shelf to fit. I find this easier then tweaking the dado size continually trying to find the right fit. The rabbets on the top and bottom are cut just oversize of 3/4" then flushed to meet the shelf surfaces after glue up.
Rabbets cut to fit in the shelf stock.
To keep the jars secure on the shelf a hole is drilled on each side and inch or two above each dado. I clamped a low fence to the drill press to give the right depth from the front edge for the hole (1/4") which made the drilling go fast.
If you drill the holes along the wrong edge, like I did, just fill them and re-drill, these will be in the back and never seen.
Glue, lots of clamps, and a little bit of patience.
Dont sweat it if one of the shelves is a little off. I didn't notice this until the glue was dry.
few swipes with a hand plane flushes it up.
Finally a coat of primer and a couple of coats of white paint. I mounted to the door by installing cleats below the top and above the bottom (also out of poplar) and then attaching to the door using hollow wall anchors.